"" What's She Eating Now?: The Lost Art of the Sandwich

Friday, June 5, 2009

The Lost Art of the Sandwich

There was a time not too long ago when New Yorkers took pride in their sandwiches and the New York deli sandwich was revered as an artful creation unable to be replicated outside of the five boroughs. Sadly, there are too few places in the city these days that respect the fundamental tenets of superior sandwich making: great bread, fresh delicious ingredients, the perfect complementary condiments, attention to structural integrity and last but most importantly, love. Walk into your average deli today and the sandwich you conceived in your mind on the walk over and imagined eating with a smile and finishing with a sense of great satisfaction as you crumple the white paper it was purposefully wrapped in will likely be a huge disappointment with a nearly stale roll, overcooked roast beef, shredded crunchless lettuce and a topping of apathy that makes the whole experience seem like a shameful lunchtime stand.

Not only has New York slipped from sandwich greatness, it has not kept up with developments in the sandwich world. It is hard to find an innovative and well prepared sandwich in New York but oddly cities like Boston and San Francisco, which I have always considered distant competitors to New York food-wise, are rife with them. Take for instance the sandwich I had last weekend at one of my favorite little places in Harvard Square. A take on a Cuban this sandwich featured herb-marinated chicken as the main event protein and “special sauce” in lieu of yellow mustard but was both thoughtfully conceived and beautifully executed on delicious bread which was grilled to perfection and held the sandwich together until the last wonderful bite. My dining companion ordered a tuna melt but this was no ordinary tuna melt; the tuna salad itself was made with the intention that it be delicious on its own before meeting small diced red onions and subtle pieces of pickle beneath a blanket of sublimely melted swiss cheese. Such sandwich artistry has gone the way of watchable professional basketball in New York.

And every cookie cutter corporate-looking sandwich shop in New York has a glass case full of stepford pre-prepared sandwiches seemingly sourced from the same uninspired central kitchen. Knowing that you can get an identical Copenhagen panini anywhere in the city to me is not comfort, however, its sad. When this trend began I argued New Yorkers won't go for this prefab souless sandwich; New Yorkers are discerning and although frequently in a hurry they will wait for a freshly made sandwich by someone who takes pride in his craft, leave Pret a Manger in London where such fare is actually an improvement on alternative options. Not only was I wrong but we even have thriving locations of Pret a Manger here in the Big Apple.

So what to do? I encourage New Yorkers to hearken back to the days of sandwich greatness. Remember what it was like to walk into your favorite deli and have the sandwich maker recall your usual. Remember trying its gourmet cousin, maybe prosciutto drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and topped with crumbles of parmesan cheese and sliced cornichons. Its time to take back the sandwich, New York. And maybe if we’re lucky the New York sandwich renaissance will bring with it the resurrection of the Knicks.

8 comments:

  1. Anthony Bourdain actually did a bit on his show "No Reservations" about Eisenberg's sandwich shop on lower Fifth Avenue. He seemed to think that a good sandwich could be had there. Since I haven't tried it myself, I cannot attest.

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  2. Well said! I love it -- you's a good writer, schupak.

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  3. There's still Katz's, but it's the same problem as always. Two weeks later, you're hungry again.

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  4. I find that a tiny hole in the wall place on 161 St. in the Bronx run by a guy named Farooq (not sure of the spelling) has great sandwiches. There is a posted list of all kinds of combinations like the Brooklyn Bridge, Bettina's Boston special, Jack and Jill.

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  5. Lovely! I can't wait to read more. It sounds as though you may need to take a ride over to L&H. They still got it going on.:)

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  6. Surprising sammies at the bodega on 6th and B. Witty names, too, eg "The Bloomburga." And it's time we take WSEN? out for some bahn mi.

    *For the record, I've frequented Eisenberg's over the last year or so, though have regretfully never ordered anything between bread; the matzo brei is too delicious. And I'll say this: Old New York lives at Eisenberg's.

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  7. Ever been to Flour in Boston? (there are two places). I wonder what your thoughts are on that place. :)

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  8. Thanks for your comment! The place I was referring to in this piece was Sunrise Bakery. I haven't been to Flour but will make a note to check it out on my next trip to Beantown! Thanks.

    Incidentally, since I wrote this piece a handful of new sandwich places have sprung up in NYC so I may have to do an update post. Stay tuned!

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